jamesglanville

3d printed papilio pro cases

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Hi, I'm new here, and am still waiting for my papilio pro in the post (I have a few projects in mind, vga/hdmi controller for arm cores, driving old lvds laptop displays and a few other things)

 

While I'm waiting, I've designed a 3d printed case for it (printed on my mendelmax), and I was wondering if anyone was interested in buying any from me. I don't like expensive boards lying around unprotected since there are usually metal things on my desk ready to short things out. I need to wait until I get my board to get the exact dimensions right, but below is a quick "sketch" of it I made. It'll be pretty basic, the square in the base is to glue in a rubber sheet for grip, the board bolts on with m3 bolts and the plastic washers shown. The cut-outs seen in the first picture are to accommodate the through-hole components. I don't yet know whether I'll always just use my board for tinkering, but if I decide to use it in a more permanent project the design allows for a top plate to be bolted on, with mounting options for any wings.

 

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Kl949FD.png

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I'll have to see how well the design works, and how much plastic is used. I think plastic would be ~£2, rubber base £0.50, and I'd want some extra to cover overheads/time, so around £ 8 perhaps.  Need to wait for my pro to stop awaiting fulfillment first, and arrive.

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It looks interesting. I have blown a board before by accidentally pulling it half off the edge of my bench, which has a metal edge. I got that board working again, however I never really fully trusted it after that. Any chance you might consider also making some cases for the mega wings? I've got a retrocade. 

 

Will you be able to do the bridge across the USB connector? I would think that would need some kind of filler material or something. Perhaps a two piece setup would work better, such that you make the bridge by bolting on a lid. I think it's currently about 2X as tall as it needs to be, the mini USB connector and XTAL are both about the same height, and only 3.9mm (.152in) tall. There is a jumper that's taller, however it's only one jumper. Also it looks like you made it thinner under the A, B, C connectors, Perhaps that can be made thin enough that if someone wants to grow down instead of up, then can cut out the bottom with a razor or something. It might also be good to add holes such that wings can be bolted on. 

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Logxen: That looks neat, I'll take a look and get some ideas.

 

kb1gtt: The overhang is really easy, my printer can do them up to about 5cm without problems (as the plastic cools it contracts to form a taught bridge.) As for mega wings, I don't plan on buying any, so would find it tricky to design just from the pictures. I made it as tall as it is because I was thinking then it would be quite functional without a lid while experimenting, but wouldn't be damaged if placed upside down by mistake (the intended height is flush with the top of the pin connectors.) Growing down is an interesting idea, but it's so easy to modify the design and reprint it's probably easier to do that if anyone wants rather than make the case too thin.

 

My order has now been dispatched, I'll wait until it arrives and post some pictures of it in the case in a week or so.

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I've finished the case, I decided not to keep the recessed rectangle for the rubber, and instead have glued the rubber straight to the flat base of the case. The rubber wasn't a great choice, it was a free sample I had, but it's not quite as grippy as I would have liked. 

 

U7XMw4s.jpg

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Felix: I'll get to work designing one, would you not need access to the leds/power jumper/reset switch though?

 

Jack: What colour/do you want a rubber base? I'll start it printing tomorrow and order the rubber if needed.

 

EDIT: I have white, blue,yellow, orange, purple

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tbh i know next to nothing about vhdl, so i use the papilio 500 (and hopefully soon the ppro) to play the arcade games :)

 

ideally i would like to have an LED diffuser that pokes flush out the top (similar to NES power led) but thats overkill and unnecessary.

 

sign me up for a white case w/ rubber bottom, and hit me up with your (i assume) paypal / cost, whenever you figure out a final cost. (ship to germany)

(via private message)

 

Edit ::: just realized how strange/messed up rubber bottom must sound. ( yes i have been guilty of typing in bottoms into google images )

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 i know next to nothing about vhdl, so i use the papilio ...... to play the arcade games

Well start learning then, you're in the right forum  :)  try things out, ask questions when stuck and we'll do our best to help.

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There are lots of us with 3D printers and the general idea of open source is share and share alike so since I've not seen this case design source or STL files posted, I will work on a case to post based on one of the OpenSCAD project case designs.

 

It may be a while before I can get to this but just wanted to start the interest machine.

 

I have a Papilio Pro and a buffer Wing do on Friday and that is what I will build it to.  Since it'll be open source, anyone can modify the design to fit their needs/parts.

 

When I find the project case files I'll throw a link in here for anyone who wants to print a project box or for reference to what can be done.

 

Doug

 

UPDATE: the parametric project box I mentioned:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:841942

 

UPDATE2:  I should have searched Thingiverse instead of relying on a Google search for 3D printed Papilio case.

It's not enclosed(no top) but 5 sides is still pretty good.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:82878

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almost there. For some reason OpenSCAD is now choking on rendering while in the GUI mode so had to use it's commandline render and export feature. The screen capture is while FreeCAD had the STL file open for viewing. I'll try to swap my filament tomorrow and print the top before printing a new bottom part too. You should see the idea from this screen capture.

 

I also want to put holes in the top for a cover which will cover and hold the Papilio 16bit I/O level shifter wing. But if I can't figure out what's causing OpenSCAD to choke, those holes might have to be hand drilled which isn't great because I don't generally print solid parts so only the top's top and bottom would be solid(3 top/bottom layers).

 

post-38844-0-09961000-1434089966_thumb.j

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